Travelers are often shocked to discover that not everyone in Barcelona speaks English. Even compared to other Euro cities, the number of English-speaking waiters and taxi drivers and helpful locals is relatively low. Outside the tourist areas, it is often difficult to find people who speak more than few words of English.
On a fundamental level, communicating in Barcelona is going to be more challenging than many visitors expect. Tour books like to say Barcelonans are very, very friendly. And they are... but let’s say that’s not always the initial vibe, especially around tourists. Even Spanish speakers need to get accustomed to the general air of indifference locals often show to visitors. They get over it once they know you, but don’t expect a sunny reception when you toss out a “mi amigo.”
While Castilian Spanish is the national language, Catalan is still the language of Barcelona and it has its own nuances and rhythms. In a cruel twist of fate, English speakers who may have learned a few words of Spanish — maybe in a high school class or perhaps by accident at the local Mexican restaurant — will find their sparse vocabulary fairly worthless. At best, they may choke out a few words in a dialect which might sound like Greek to a Barcelonan. There is a familiar confused look as locals try to comprehend the words, not realizing that it is simply a dumbass American or Brit trying to speak Mexican Spanish. When I speak, many locals think I’m Italian.
This might sound like a bit of dumbass jingoism, but there often seems to be an almost anti-English movement in the city, which has never been known for its warm greetings to outsiders. Some museums don’t have English translations available. What museum in a modern tourist city doesn’t have an English translation? In Mongolia, the Mongolian Art Museum is likely to have English translations. In Barcelona? Maybe, maybe not. They are much more focused on preserving their own language than pushing for more English-language signage for confused tourists.
Even people who regularly speak Spanish in other parts of the world will encounter surprises. The pride and emphasis on Catalan is very real. For generations, Catalonians have battled efforts to suppress and ban the language, most recently by the dictator Francisco Franco. They are passionate about its use, and you will find many locals are going to speak more Catalan than Castilian. And often they will be tossing out Catalan slang, which your high school teacher may not be familiar with.
To the untrained ear, Catalan can sound very, very different. Catalan is a very specific dialect and there are very distinct differences from Castilian. Everyone knows the famous Barcelona accent — the lispy “Ls” — but the differences go beyond the vocabulary and phrasing. (As Steve Martin would joke, “They have a different word for everything!”)
There is a familiar confused look as locals try to comprehend the words… When I speak, many locals think I’m Italian.
For casual travelers, even learning a few phrases in Catalan will go a long way. Greet someone with “Bon Dia.” Respond to a comment with “valle” (ba-leh), the universal reply that roughly translates as “OK, sure, maybe, see ya or a multitude of other variations, depending on the conversation. “Adeu” for goodbye, instead of adios. Asking for directions, “On es” instead of “donde es.”
Here are a few more examples:
Closed / Open: Tancat / Obert: (Tan-KAT / Oo-BERT) Spanish: Cerrado / Abierto
The check, please: El compte, si us plau: (El KOMP-teh...) Spanish: La cuenta
How’s it going?: Com va tot? (Kom bah TOT) Spanish: ¿Cómo va todo?
My name is... : Em dic... (Um DEEK) Spanish: Me llamo...
I don’t understand: No ho entenc. (No oo an-TENK) Spanish: No lo entiendo.
Even a minimal effort to learn a few Catalan words will earn rewards. People will look at you differently. I’ve seen the double take when I toss out a phrase, even if I mangle it. The locals will notice the difference; they will appreciate the effort. And you will be a little step closer to breaking down the famed Catalan reserve.
Planning a trip to Barcelona? Subscribe to Barcelona Travel Tips.
There’s a Catalan here in Salzburg who does stand-up comedy about the differences between Catalan and Castilian. I think I’m one of the few people who gets it!