The colorful plates and bowls hoovered up by tourists in Spain, the ceramics that clutter the shelves of every souvenir shop are typically cheap knockoffs produced in a factory that may or may not be based in Spain. This is hardly breaking news, and yet travelers willingly buy the cheap pottery, happy for a colorful and useful remembrance of their trip.
Venture away from the souvenir shops and it’s easy to find the real deal, beautiful pieces, often handmade that display the real artistry of the craft. Small stores will often maintain a few shelves for local work, especially in the small towns, reflecting the distinctive styles and tastes of the region.
But that is a lot of work. And maybe you’re not a collector; you’re just looking for something authentic for the dining room.
There are several ceramics-focused shops scattered around the Gothic Quarter, and you’ll soon realize they’re almost all related. Art Escudellers dominates the market, with at least four shops (sometimes more) clustered in the old district, including one on La Rambla. The newest outlet is on Plaça de l’Àngel, right next to the Jaume metro stop.
Art Escudellers’ headquarters at Carrer dels Escudellers, 23, a couple of blocks off La Rambla. The store was launched in 1997, but the street was once the center of Barcelona’s pottery trade, stretching back to the 13th and 14th centuries. The potter’s guild was located on Carrer dels Escudellers. (“Escudellers” roughly translates as “potter” or “ceramist.”)
From the Art Escudellers site:
“Towards the end of the 14th century, the “Ollers” or potters was replaced by the “Escudellers”. This were potters specialized specifically in the production of “escudillas”, items that were used for virtually everything at the time. “Escudillas” were manufactured in different diameters and were decorated with different topics.”
All the Art Escudellers stores are packed with ceramics and pottery from around Spain. Each store separates the offerings by region, making it easy for neophytes to understand the distinct styles. The tables and shelves area packed with plates, bowls, soap dishes, teapots, tiles and anything else that can host a design.
Undoubtedly, much of the material is factory made, but each table and space offers unusual items. The stores are packed with murals, old prints and distinctive and iron and wood work. The multilevel Carrer dels Escudellers store features ceramic tableware, sculptures and decorative items, but there is also exhibition space and unique items from modern artisans. Walls are cluttered with the work of artisans working in different forms. Explorers can find gems that won’t look anything like stuff from the souvenir stores.
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