Skip La Boqueria, Check Out This Market
Avoid the crowds for an authentic food market experience
Sure, La Boqueria is the “most famous” food market in Barcelona and it’s steps off La Rambla. It’s also overcrowded with tours and busloads of people eager to get a free sample of cheese, as well as a fertile hunting ground for local pickpockets.
If you’re jonesing for an authentic Barcelona food market moment, but you’re in that tight tourist time frame, there is an easy alternative not far away from the crush of La Rambla.
Mercat de Santa Caterina is the real deal. A buzzing sea of stalls, it is a short stroll across Via Laietana from the central cathedral, and not far from the Palau de Musica Catalana. When you’re done, the market is also a starting point to dive into El Born from the backside, a labyrinth of alleys, restaurants and shops often missed by short-term travelers.
The site was the original home of a Dominican convent founded in the 13th century, but was reborn as Barcelona’s first covered market in 1848. A 2005 renovation led by architects Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue created a modern form of the traditional market, heighted by an undulating roof line with 325,000 colorful ceramic tiles, supported by an intricate steel and wood frame.
Inside, Caterina is a bustling traditional market, serving the local neighborhoods. Stalls offer the fresh meats, fish and vegetables that are the lifeblood of city kitchens. There are also a couple of restaurants offering a spot to take a break and watch the swirl of the community. Without the oppressive tourists throngs of Boqueria, Caterina gives you the sights, smells and authentic experience of a real Barcelona working market.
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