Explore a Modernist Bullring
Barcelona's last active bullring is also an excellent example of Catalan craftsmanship.
When tourists talk about “the bullring” in Barcelona, they are typically referring to Las Arenas, the former bullring on the Placa Espanya traffic circle that was redesigned into a circular shopping mall in 2011 by Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners. It offers an eclectic mix of chain stores and an upper deck with a nice view of the traffic circle, but it doesn’t offer much of an authentic experience, unless you really like round shopping malls.
But Las Arenas was not the only bullring in Barcelona. There is another, much-less-traveled arena that still carries the ambiance and style of a real bullring and it hosts a museum celebrating the gruesome sport’s history in Barcelona. The arena is also a spectacular example of 1900s design and craftsmanship, constructed at the time when modernisme was sweeping through the city.
Built in 1914, La Plaza de Toros Monumental was the last active bullring in 2011, when Barcelona officially and finally banned the spectacles. Usually referenced as La Monumental, the arena is most often described as an example of “neo-Mudéjar” design, thanks to the geometric brickwork and arches, a vaguely Moorish look that was common for big public facilities around Spain.
But the stadium still has solid modernist credentials. The bullring was expanded in 1916 under the leadership of two leading modernisme designers, Domènec Sugrañes i Gras and Ignasi Mas i Morell. Sugrañes was a disciple of Gaudi and would eventually take over as head architect of Sagrada Familia. Sugrañes and Mas integrated thousands of blue and white glazed tiles, wrought-iron grills, colorful roofline and egg-shaped dome finials, giving the arena a distinctly Catalan façade.
The building is still a working arena, and it regularly hosts concerts, circuses and fairs. Fun fact: The Beatles, Rolling Stones and Bruce Springsteen have performed at La Monumental.
For a small fee, you can walk around the bullring and bullfighting museum, Tuesday to Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Or you can also take a few minutes to just walk around on the street and enjoy the spectacular façade.
La Monumental is located on the north end of Eixample, on the corner of Gran Via and Carrer de la Marina. There is also a metro stop, Monumental, on L2.
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